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This section is made for you who want more information about the components an electric bike is built around. In this section, you will get an in-depth explanation of all the parts an electric bike consists of. You will get an overview of everything from i.a. tires, brakes, battery, engine, suspension and much more.
Virtually all brands of electric bicycles you find on the website are produced in China with both RoHs and CE marking. CE marking is an EU requirement - otherwise they may not be traded in Europe. From the large Chinese factories, most models are sent to European warehouses, which give you a shorter delivery time. It is important that you agree that you cannot compare the quality of these e-bikes with brands "at home" - Bosch, Gazelle, Winther, Cube and Conway - to name a few.
The prices of (most models on the website), if you look at electric bicycles, are well below half and this also means that the quality of certain components that are used in manufacturing has been saved. These are parts such as; chain, general waterproofness (IP rating) – however, you can ride your bike in the rain, but you cannot expect that especially your display and lights on the bike over time can continue to withstand large amounts of rain, the life of the battery will also be shorter and on certain models the brake system (including brake pads - which wear out quickly). Having said that, the quality is still fine and acceptable - you just shouldn't compare an electric bike for DKK 10,000 that can run 45 km/h with one, for example. Gazelle electric bike that can run 25km/h and could easily cost twice as much.
An electric bicycle is, to a greater or lesser extent, like a regular bicycle - but with an attached motor and associated battery that provides assistance in pedalling. The motor is measured in watts and the battery in Wh (here they are listed as ah = amperes). A bigger engine can help you with more power, but a bigger engine also drains your battery faster.
The driving force behind your electric bike. The location of the engine can generally be in two places.
Mounted in the central structure of the frame, where the pedals and the crank rotate.
Mounted in the hub, on either the front wheel or rear wheel.
1. A central or frame-mounted engine is often characterized by the fact that it is often torque-based. When you step on the pedals, the e-bike measures and assists based on how much you pedal and the level of assistance you ride in. This can give a more even distribution, so to speak, of the help you get, but can also require more maintenance than a hub-mounted motor. On the other hand, it is well protected from wind and weather, and it is easier to change tyres.
2. A hub-mounted motor on the rear wheel (or front wheel), registers how much you step on the pedals and assists from here via the wheel – this can give you a feeling of being pushed off (with a motor mounted on the rear wheel of the hub). A hub-mounted motor often does not require the same maintenance and is also often cheaper to produce, as the entire bicycle frame does not have to be constructed around a frame-mounted motor. It can often be a bit more difficult to change tires when the motor is in the hub.
FASHION
The motor system itself on an electric bike usually comes with several options in terms of power - that is, how much help the motor should give you. There are usually between 3 – 5 different modes, where 1 is very little help and 3 / 5 is maximum help. An electric bike in Denmark can go 45 km/h - also with a 1000w motor, but an electric bike must not be able to go more than 25 km/h without you stepping on the pedals yourself. In addition, liability insurance, a helmet and a moped license are required for the 45 km/h e-bikes - unless you are over 18 years old.
The size of the battery basically determines how far you can drive on one charge. They are indicated on my website as v (volts) and subsequently ah (amps), e.g. 48v 15ah, which is also the size of most models I have. The higher the two values, the more range you get. A charge usually takes around 5-6 hours, but of course this depends on the size of the battery. Certain models have the option of connecting up to three batteries at once – which extends your range enormously. Otherwise, it is also possible to buy an extra battery that you simply carry in your bag when you go, so you can change along the way if there is only room for one battery on your model.
Certain models have the battery built into the stem of your bike, or where space has been made in the stem for it to fit in (and is therefore removable), other models have the battery mounted on the stem itself, where it is also portable. Some models have the battery fixed inside the stem, where it cannot be removed - it must therefore be charged together with the bicycle. Other models, your bike must be folded to get the battery out for charging.
Be aware that your battery continuously self-discharges, so do not use it for a long period (over two months), then it is important that you continuously charge it. It is also always a good idea to have your battery at something similar to room temperature, as this helps to maintain the lifespan of your battery.
It is basically the size of your battery that determines your range - of course, depending on how much you step on yourself. In addition, there are many external factors that also come into play; wind, weather, terrain, your body weight, etc.
If you drive in the highest mode, your battery will be drained faster. You will also find that perhaps both your top speed and range decrease during the winter period due to the cold. As a starting point, you must divide all the declared kilometers you see for each model by 2 - then you will get a more realistic picture of a real range.
All bikes at Wheelriders come with a display of some kind – on most a larger LCD display. This tells you something about your speed, number of km driven, which mode you drive and how much current is still left on your battery. Note that these displays are not built for the Danish winter weather with rain, snow and lots of salt. The display will eventually have to be replaced, as it won't hold up to all that rain - so leave the bike at home as much as you can when the bigger rain showers come.
The most important security you have. Good brakes are a must, and they are available either with regular disc brakes or hydraulic brakes. Hydraulics are more expensive, but also give you better and more effective braking performance. At Wheelriders, the vast majority of electric bikes come with regular disc brakes, but there is always the option of upgrading to hydraulic ones. It is very important that your brakes always work optimally - therefore it is a good idea to regularly check how well they brake. Pay attention to your brake pads, which wear down over time - this often happens from around 4-500km, depending on how much you brake.
The gear change system is important, as more gears and the quality of this system often give more options in the terrain you may drive in. The primary brand you will find the gear system in on models here on the website is Shimano, which is quite good quality. Most gear systems are external gears, as the motor primarily found on these e-bikes is rear-wheel drive - the motor is therefore located in the hub of the rear wheel. The gear system primarily consists of 7-9 gears - some mountain bike models have up to 21 gears.
The tires on the electric bike models you find on Wheelriders.dk are pneumatic, which means there is a tube in the tire that has air pumped into it. Most electric bikes have a tire size of 26″x1.95″, but here at Wheelriders, you will mainly find "Fat bikes" with large 20″x4.0″ and 26″x4.0″ tires. These lie better on the road, are more stable and provide better comfort – especially at higher speeds.
You can mainly get 3 types of pneumatic tires:
You can easily drive with off-road tires around town and on tarmac - however, their full potential is only really expressed when you get off the road and out into some terrain to drive.
Suspension is not a must, but it is definitely “nice to have”. It makes your entire drive a much more pleasant experience and various bumps on the road are absorbed in the springs. The electric bike brands you find here on the website pretty much all have some form of suspension. It is either shock absorbers as standard, either front and or rear or hydraulic shock absorbers, which have greater comfort in them. Which shock absorber you should choose, and whether it should be both front and rear, depends entirely on the terrain you have to drive on, how far you have to drive each time and how long the journey takes.
An electric bike can quickly weigh quite a bit extra, and most models on the website are also on the other side of 30kg - so it's not a bike you just carry around. The reason for the higher weight is primarily the engine and battery.
All the bikes at Wheelriders are made of aluminium, with the exception of a few that are primarily made of steel, as these models are somewhat stronger than a 45km/h electric bike.
It can be difficult to figure out which electric bike to buy. It is always a good idea to start by finding out how much it should be used, in what terrain it should be used in, and how far and fast it should be able to drive. Then you can always cut the selection down from here. Do you want a luggage carrier and a basket? The importance of suspension is also something you can take into consideration.
Via the filter function inside electric bicycles, you can filter and adjust your wishes on several parameters, such as; speed, range, bike weight and many more.
If you are still in doubt, you are always welcome to send me an email at hej@wheelriders.dk - then I will return.
